Ingredient List

M thru Z
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Macadamia Nut Oil
Another great vegetable oil, which also is produced in Hawaii, is Macadamia Nut Oil. This is an unsaturated pale-yellow oil which is cold-pressed from the nut of the Macadamia tetraphyla tree. It is found mainly on the Hawaiian islands. This oil is a very stable oil and needs no antioxidants to lengthen its shelf life. Many are very familiar with the dietary pluses this oil has to offer. It is highly monounsaturated, making it a very healthy oil for incorporation into our foods.

The Macadamia nut is rich in oil, infact it is made up of more than 70% oil. It yields a wonderful oil that is known mainly for its use in cooking, and is being discoverd equally wonderful for use in cosmetics. When looking at this oil on a chemical level, it closely resembles human sebum. It has a high level of palmitoleic acid, which plays a very important role in protecting cell membranes from lipid peroxidation, which can lead to cell death. The use of this oil for cosmetic purposes can help to protect the skin from this ill effect, especially in the case of excessive exposure to the sun.

Macadamia nut oil is easy to use in lotions, and such, because it emulsifies easily, and absorbs quickly into the skin. It is very safe, and has an extremely low oral toxicity rating. Because of this low oral toxicity, macadamia nut oil is an excellent choice for use in baby products, lip balms, and other facial formulas. It even has been shown to have some sunprotecting effects. And because it contains omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids, it is very useful in helping the skin do its job as a water barrier for our bodies.

Submitted by Jennifer Akin 5/14/98
Supplies:
Kukui and Macadamia Nut Oils, Cosmetic Applications, Cosmetic & Toiletries(Nov 1991) by K. Klein
All Vegetables Oils Arent Created Equal, DCI(May 1992), by D. Gray

Also known as Also known as Queesland Nut Oil
Macadaima Nut oil ia an excellent emoillent for soapmaking. It carries much of the same properties as Kukui Nut oil, but at a fraction of the cost. It is cold pressed and contains a high amount of unsaturated fats that are eaisly absorbed by the skin. It contains nearly 80 percent monounsaturated fatty acids. The amount of palmitoleic acid in Macadamia Nut oil is much higher than many other vegetable oils, and acts as an antioxodant, protecting cell membranes from deteroration. Macadamia nut oil is highly stable with a longer shelf life than most common vegetable oils. It comes from the nut of a evergreen tree found in Hawaii. The tree was originally found in Austrailia, but then later planted for industrial use in Hawaii. For soapmaking, use Macadamia Nut oil as 10% of the total oils for maximum benefit.
Cheryl Bonner

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Magnesium Sulfate
See Epsom Salts

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Mango Butter
An off-white substance that is taken from the seed kernels of the mango tree. It is not as soft at room temperature as shea butter and has a higher saponification number (if you want to make soap with it). It is just about the texture of cocoa butter and has no scent to speak of. Donna Maria 5/23/98

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Marshmallow
Marshmallow is high in lime and calcium. The root is actually more potent than the leaves or flowers. The root is especially high in oxygen and pectin. When the powdered root is applied to moist surfaces, it will draw and absorb all moisture. Marshmallow is one of the best mucilage agents, giving about 35% each of vegetable mucus and starch.

Therapeutic action:
Demulcent, emollient, mucilage, nutritive, vulnerary, absorbent, laxative, diuretic, and protective.

Medicinal uses:
infections, burns, inflamed or swollen joints and muscles, chronic constipation. kidney or bladder inflammations, skin eruptions, psoriasis.

Preparations:
Decoction, fluid extract, infusion, syrup, powder, tincture.
Kathy Petal Pusher

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Mayonnaise
Mayonnaise is made from oil, eggs, and vinegar or lemon juice. The oil and eggs are moisturizing and nourishing to the skin, and the vinegar or lemon juice helps restore the skin's natural acid level. It is a complete treatment and can be used as a moisturizer for the skin or as a contitioner for the hair before the final rinse.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Mineral Oil
Mineral oil is widely used in cosmetics because it will not spoil over time, as do many other oils. It is a mixture of refined liquid hydrocarbons derived from petroleum. Petroleum jelly is the solid form of this oil; it stays on top of the skin, providing a shiny protective surface.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Neroli
See Orange Flower Water

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Oatmeal
Oatmeal is a popular breakfast cereal rich in protein, potassium, iron, phosphates, magnesium, and silicon. It has gentle cleaning properties and can be used in place of soap. Oatmeal is nontoxic and soothing to the skin, so it's especially good for sensitive skin.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Oils, Base or Fixed
Fixed oils are nonvolatile or almost nonvolatile, since some do have a slight odor. Fixed oils leave a PERMANENT OILY STAIN when absorbed into paper. Essential oils do not exhibit this characteristic as they are volatile oils. Examples of fixed oils are vegetable oils, mineral oils, and synthetic oils used in various cosmetics.
See All About Oils
For properties oils give to soaps see Fixed Oil Properties

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Olive Oil
Olive Oil was probably the first oil used in cosmetics. It is obtained from fresh, ripe olives and ranges in color from a pale yellow to a dark green.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Orange Flower Water (Neroli)
Orange flower water is a fragrant water made from the orange blossom of the bitter orange tree. It is also an excellent astringent and cleanser. The oil from this orange flower is called neroli, and its scent is believed to reduce stress and induce sleep.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Orrisroot Powder
The root of the white iris (Iris Florentina) is used as a fixative in perfumes and powders. The dried root has a light violet scent, and its use dates back to Roman times.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Panthenol
Vitamin B5

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Parabens
From the Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients (Winter):
"Parabens- The parabens, methyl-, propyl-, and parahydroxybenzoate, are the most commonly used preservatives in the United States.......The parabens have a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity..."

From Creating Your Own Cosmetics, Naturally (Smeh):
Parabens is a TM for the methyl, propyl, butyl, and ethyl esters of p-hydrozybenzoic acid. "The Industry and FDA consider the use of preservatives an acceptable risk because the alternative of not using them is worse and more dangerous......The majority of manufacturers preserve their products with a combination of parabens and diazolidinyl urea because they are relatively safe. Nevertheless, all preservatives are cellular toxins and as such need to be handled carefully."
Sherri-Lee Gagnon

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Peelu
Peelu is the bark from the Peelu tree.. It makes a great toothpaste. It's texture is fibrous rather than scratchy and is supposed to be easier on the enamel covering your teeth. I used a commercial peelu toothpaste and found it also seemed to polish my teeth.
Christin (Dmstc Goddess)

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Persic Oil
See Apricot Kernel Oil

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Potassium Hydroxide - KOH
An alkalye which when reacted with fats produces soap. Produces a softer soap than sodium hydroxide
See Safety

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Propolis
During the last part of a bee's life, it stops gathering nectar & pollen. Instead, it gathers tree saps and mixes them with bee secretions. The result is propolis, which they use to coat many surfaces in the hive. Propolis is considered to be a very effective natural antibiotic. It is also credited with antifungal, antiviral, analgesic, and anti-oxidizing properties. It is believed to be particularly effective against circulatory problems including high blood pressure. It's also used for fighting oral infections including those that cause bad breath.
Kathy Petal Pusher

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Retinyl Palmitate
Another name for Vitamin A

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Rosemary Oil Extract
Rosemary Oil Extract is a powerful antioxidant used as a natural preservative.

Important information regarding natural preservatives for Soap and Oils.
GSE (grapefruit seed extract) and Vitamin E are not effective preservatives against rancidity in soap. Current testing shows that GSE neutralizes in the soap-making process. Also that, Vitamin E, C and A do not stand up to the high pH levels of soap. There are no active vitamin E tocopherols available after a short exposure to pH 7.9 or higher. And, as you know soap tends to range between 9.4 and 11; with 10 being the norm.

Because soap has a built-in anti-microbial mechanism (the naturally high pH level), Microbes which form due to the natural degradation of products is not a problem, but Rancidity is. The free oils in our products need protection from oxidization- a process similar to rusting. You may have wondered what those brown spots were on your soap. Now you know-your preservatives were ineffective. GSE and Vitamin E, C, & A do not protect natural oil based products (Soap) from rancidity or oxidization.

Rosemary Oil Extract seems to be a significant solution to this problem. It is a powerful antioxidant. It is approved for food use and is nearly odorless with a very slight color. This is not the same as Rosemary Essential Oil or the commonly known Rosemary Extract. Beware of Rosemary Extract suspended in a propylene glycol or alcohol base. This is not a natural product. This could have an adverse reaction in soap-making. Rosemary Oil Extract is an all- natural extract in an oil base, made by removing the scent and astringency from Rosmarinus Officinalis and can be used in any Oils, Lotion, Lipstick, Balm and Soaps. Add to all oils before mixing with lye water!

This way of protecting your product is more economical as well as 2 to 3 times less expensive. Because it is highly concentrated much less is needed (4 to 8 drops) per 1 pound of soap or .002 to.008% to any oil base product. 7 grams to 40 LBS of oil. There is no SAP value to worry about, because you use so little. Our personal experience using "ROE" has resulted in a much creamier soap with a much longer shelf life-up to 3 times longer. This is a sharp contrast to the 8 to 10 month shelf life using GSE, Vitamin E, C, & A.
Margaret Skarin 1/3/99

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Rosewater
Rosewater is a fragrant water made from distilling fresh rose petals with water. Rose petals are astringent and cleansing. In London, rosewater is added to champagne for a fragrant and special drink.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

As there is a lot of confusion around rosewaters I thought I would try to explain the differences.

1. There is an infusion made of rosepetals steeped in water for a couple of weeks, this would probably more correctly be called a Rose Petal Infusion. I dont believe this would have any healing benefit, and the smell is, imho, probably temporary. I personally would definitely add some kind of preservative if you make this, or it will go off quite quickly.

2. Rosewater hydrosol. This is the "water" left when rose essential oil is distilled off. This is very beneficial, in a healing sense, because it contains certain elements which did not make the distillation process, and is actually much more than water with rose essential oil suspended in it. Its wonderful for certain skin conditons.

3. Rosewater from eastern markets etc. I think that this is possibly 2. with a fragrance oil added, because it does not smell like the real thing to me. This can be used very effectively if a rose smell is wanted in cosmetics, soaps, bath bombs, rebatching soaps etc. It may be synthetic rose oil, but it is in suspension, so I dont know exactly what to tell you about it, I know that it is used in cooking, to make candies etc.
Mary Robinson

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St. John's Wort
It is a wonderfully healing oil... good for aches and pains.
Sterilize canning jars, pack with the fresh blooms... they are 'ready to use' when the pollen reddens your fingers... fill to the brim with olive oil.. cover, leave in the sun for.. I want to say 2 weeks...
Marge Clark 6/20/98

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Salicylic Acid
See Aspirin

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Salt (Sodium Chloride - NaCl)
Salt can be found in any kitchen cupgoard and is used as an astringent and antiseptic in cosmetics. It can also be used for removing dead skin from the body and scalp. But use with care as it can be very drying.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Sesame Oil
Sesame oil is a pale yellow oil made from sesame seeds; it has a mild sesame scent. It has sunscreening properties, one of the highest for natural oils (only mink oil is higher).
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Shea butter
Shea butter, aka African Karite, is native to central Africa. It is a tree that bears green plum-like fruit, which turn dark green when they are ripe. The fruits are harvested in June/July, and the pits are re*moved and dried and roasted. The pits contain up to 50% lipids which are extracted via waterbath.

Shea butter contains a high level of uns*aponifiables, or oils which can not be turned into soap when exposed to the saponification process.

Here's a breakdown of what Shea Butter contains:
  • triglycerides - 50%
  • diglycerides - 4%
  • monoglycerides - 2%
  • Fatty Acids - 5%
  • Unsaponifiables - 8%
  • Waxy Esters - 7%
  • Unknown Substances - 24%

According to Aubrey Hamton, shea butter offers some measure of UV protection. I am doubtful. Mr. Hampton claims that "tests show that karite (shea) butter on its own without PABA [ed-para amino benzoic acid--both naturally and more commonly, synthetically produced sunscreen] prevented burning when exposed to UV rays (JM Lwoff & JR Boissier, JOURNAL DE PHARMACOLOGIE, 1 [35, 1970].

Another asset has to do with the elasticity of the skin and the prevention of weals...this means karite is a valuable addition to moisturizers and celltherapy creams...Its high linoleic acid content makes it ideal for dry skin, dermatitis, sunburn...."

Shea butter is used for food in Africa and Japan, where it replaces regular dairy butter in foods.
Trina Wallace 8/14/98

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Soap
Soap is the oldest of all cleaning products. It is made with water , lye, and fat or oils in a chemical process called saponification. Shampoo and liquid soaps are diluted forms of soap mixed with water, glycerine, and other ingredients for the desired texture and results.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Sodium Bicarbonate
See Baking Soda

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Sodium Hydroxide - NaOH
An alkalye which when reacted with fats produces soap.
See Safety

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Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Anionic detergent prepared by sulfation of lauryl alxohol, followed by neutralization with sodium carbonate. White or cream-colored flakes, or powder. Faint odor of fatty substances. Smooth feel. Neutral reaction. One gram dissolves in 10ml of water, giving an opalescent solution. Lowers the surface tension of aqueous solutions. Emulsifies fats.

Used as a wetting agent or detergent, expecially in the textile industry. Also an ingredient of toothpastes.
From the Merck Index

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Sodium Tetraborate
See Borax

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Squalene
It is a polyunsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon of low density which can produce oxygen by combining with water. Its synonym is spinacene and its chemical name is 2,6,10,15,19,23-Hexamethyltetracosane (C30H50 with six doubles bonds). It belongs to the triterpenes. In state pure squalene is colorless, tasteless, odorless liquid.

It is found in virgin olive oil between 0.1-0.8%. It is also found in wheat germ oil, rice bran oil and yeast.

But its main source is the oil of the livers of deep sea sharks, belonging to the Squalidae family , where we can find it in a proportion between 30-90% according to the shark species.

Squalene is not a strange substance to our organism. Its occurrence has been reported in hair fat, dermoid cyst, cerumen and sebum. In the human body squalene is most abundant in the skin surface lipids, reaching concentrations up to 10% of total surface fat, where it helps to keep our skin moist. Squalene permeates into the skin at a rate of 2 mm/second.

Approximately the composition of the human sebum is the following:
free faty acids.............. 5%
gliceydes..................... 50%
waxes......................... 20%
squalene..................... 10%
other hydrocarbons.... 5%
cholesteryl esters ....... 4%
cholesterol free.......... 1%
other sterols............... 1%
other substance.......... 4%

Our organism produces 1,5 grams of squalene everyday. It is an intermediary in the synthesis of cholesterol and a precursor of vitamin D.
http://www.arrakis.es/~blati7h/squalene.html 9/3/98

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Stearic Acid
Stearic acid is a white, waxy powder obtained from animal fats and oils. When melted, it becomes a clear liquid. Stearic acid gives stiffness to creams and keeps the oils and water combined, much like beeswax does.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

Stearic acid is one of the components of triglycerides which makeup fats and oils. It is found in large quantities in beef tallow and in smaller quantities in other fats and oils. It is a long chained saturated fat and thus considered a contributor to high cholesterol.
Linda

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Stevia
Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana) is native to Peru where it grows wild along stream banks. It is a natural sweetener that has no calories & so is great for diabetics, because the body does not process it like sugar & honey. There have been complaints from diabetics that their body reacts (at first) to stevia the same as it does to massive sugar intake because the body thinks it is getting a mega-dose of sugar & automatically reacts accordingly even though the actual sugar is not there (some kind of "auto-reaction").

It propagates best by layering on moist dirt. It does put out seeds, but they have poor germination. It is a tender perennial & is very sensitive to lack of water & cold. I have found it hard to find plants for sale through the mail, but Richter's in Canada has it & sells it for about $8 US. In one season, if put out after frost, if it likes it's location & water supply, one plant should grow 24-30" tall & the same around. Test acres in Canada have produced in one acre of stevia the same sweetness as 200 tons of sugar.

It has anti-microbial, anti-biotic actions & has been used by Peruvian Indians as a mouthwash, skin wash, etc. for a thousand years. It is supposed to be good for acne as a skin wash. It also makes a good mouthwash to use for gingivitis.

It can be used just about any place that sugar would be used (meringues would not work though). It can be used fresh or dried. The green powder is the closest to the natural plant. The white powder has been processed to be more concentrated. The liquid is even more concentrated.Stevia comes as a dried herb (cut & sifted), as a powder & as a liquid. Depending on the form it is considered 10x to 300x sweeter than sugar. With the green powder when baking the substitution is 1-2 Tablespoons per cup of sugar. When using the white powder it is 1-2 teaspoons per cup of sugar. When using the liquid it is measured by drop.

In drinks the powder does not really dissolve, but kind of sits there like loose tea leaves do. I've not used it in baking yet, but have been told by others that it tends to turn things (like cake batter) a green color.
CoraLynn

Stevia is *very* potent. It still can't officially be sold as a sugar replacement here in the states, but you can find it in the health food stores in powder, herbal, and liquid form as a 'diatary supplement'. I've found through personal use that even a lil 1/8th tsp stevia powder to a 16oz glass of tea was almost too sweet for me. It tastes similar to nutrasweet, leaning more towards the sugar twin taste, but its 100% natural unlike the other two. It's supposed to be no calorie like nutrasweet and its competitors.
Suzanne McCarty

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Tocopherol
See Vitamin E

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Treacle
Treacle [TREE-kuhl] A term used mainly in Great Britain for the syrupy by-product created during sugar refining. There are two types: dark treacle which is very much like MOLASSES and which has a somewhat bitter taste, and light treacle, which contains fewer impurities than the dark variety, has a lighter flavor and is also called GOLDEN SYRUP.

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Turkey Red Oil
TRADITIONAL USES:
This carrier oil was originally named Turkey Red because it was the color of red turkeys. Turkey Red makes a wonderful bath and carrier oil. Its penetrating qualities make it an excellent body and massage oil. It also makes a nice perfume oil as it does not cloud when mixed with an essential or fragrance oil. Turkey Red contains Hybrid Safflower oils, which contain protein, minerals, vitamins, and are high in linoleic acids, Isopropyl Myristate, Lanolin oil, and PEG-8 Doileate. It is most often used as a base for perfume oils, bath oils, massage and medicinal oil, and skin care.
KerrieAnn

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Vinegar (Acetic Acid)
When fruit juice ferments, it turns into vinegar. Vinegars are known for their high acid content and sharp odors. In cosmetics, vinegar is used to remove alkaline residues from the skin and hair. You should never apply straight vinegar to your body; instead, dilute the vinegar with pure water (one part vinegar to eight parts water).
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Vitamin A
Vitamin A is found in fruits and vegetables, and can easily be absorbed through the skin (be careful, as too much can be damaging). It is believed to have skin-healing properties similar to those of vitamin E. Also known as Retinyl Palmitate
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Vitamin B5
Aslo known as Panthenol

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Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
Vitamin C is used as a preservative and antioxidant in many cosmetics. It is also necessary in our diet for healthy teeth, bones, and blood. It can be found in many fruits and vegetab;les; most commonly in citrus fruits and broccoli.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Vitamin D (Ergocalciferol)
Produced by the on the skin when ultra violet light hits the oils on the skin.

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Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
Vitamin E is found in many vegetable oils. It is believed to protect body fat and tissues from breakdown and to slow down the aging process. It also helps normal red blood cells, muscles, and othe body tissues to grow and remain healthy. Mivamin E oil can be used alone as a moisturizer; it is very thick and sticky and is best on small areas such as under your eyes.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Vodka (Alcohol)
Vodka is generally made from potatoes, but many cheaper bodkas are made from grains. The Russian name for vidka is Shizennia boda, which means "water of life." Vodka is a good pure alcohol for making cosmetics; it's usually used as a solvent. Vodka made in the United States is ethyl alcohol (ethanol) and water. The percentage of ethanol is one half the proof; for example, a 90 proof vodka is 45% ethanol.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Walnut Oil
Juglans regia
Walnut tree
Walnut tree comes from the Middle East ; it is thought to have been imported from Iran in western Europe and temperate Asia. Walnut tree is a big tree, 10 to 25 metres high, with many big twisting branches and a wide thick top. The young bark is smooth and ashen, it cracks later on and not very deeply. The alternate, glabrous and deciduous leaves are composed of 5 to 9 aromatic leaflets with a bitter and astringent taste. The greenish leaves are monoecious. The male flowers are oblong, cylindrical and dangling catkins, the female flowers make spikes at the end of the year branches. The fruit is a big rounded drupe with a green and fleshy pericarp : the husk has a very hard wrinkled endocarp and the two-valve shell encloses the seed (almond) which is divided in four lobes. The husk, leaves, catkins, bark and almond are used. Walnut tree already grew in Provence during the Quaternary and was cultivated for its edible fruit as early as the palaeolithic. Charlemagne advised to plant walnut trees all over his empire. Dioscorides quoted the fruit. It was first thought to be toxic but Mattioli rehabilitated it and recommended it, along with the catkins, against uterine spasms. Saint Hildegard, Albert the Great and later written works of the 14 and 15th centuries also recommended the leaves and catkins of walnut tree. Galen wrote "one walnut after a meal is allowed, two are harmful, three make people pass away". In the 19th century, the action of the leaves against scrofula and tuberculosis was stressed. Cabinet-makers have walnut wood in high esteem and use it to carve dishes or tools for cooking. Walnut husk gives a reputed tincture to dye wood, fabrics and leather. Walnut is rich ; it can be added to sweets, cakes or bread. The sap is used to make some sugar which crystallizes like ordinary sugar. The leaves, husk or tender almond make an excellent craft wine.

A bit of history
Juglans comes from the Latin "Jovis", Jove and "glans", acorn, Jove's acorn. Regia means royal, because walnut tree was imported in Greece by Persian kings. The Ancients considered walnut was a dish of gods and called it royal nut or Persian nut. Whereas walnut symbolizes desire, marriage and fecundity, walnut tree is sinister and witches use it to shelter. When walnut trees are surrounded with white haze at dawn, people say witches have left their underwear on the branches before to leave for Sabbath. In the Alps, to know if a marriage will be successful, people just have to display several fresh walnuts on the hearthstone. Should they explode and jump towards the fire, the union will be successful. In Tyrol, the ribs of witches are thought to be made of walnut wood ; should anybody put a walnut under the chair of a witch, she will never leave it to be malefic. In mythology, walnut shell was the favourite skiff of virtuous people wishing to escape from a deluge.

Walnut oil
Chemical composition
Average composition in fatty acids
  Linoleic acid 54 to 65 %
  Oleic acid 14 to 21 %
  Linolenic acid 9 to 15 %
  Palmitic acid 6 to 8 %
  Stearic acid 1 to 3 %
Walnut oil also contains 0.5 to 1% unsaponifiables rich in sitosterols.

Cosmetic uses
Very unsaturated, walnut oil presents good anti-ageing, regenerative, moisturizing and tonifying properties. In formulation, it is a compound of the oily phase. Walnut oil can thus be used in :
anti-wrinkle products for around the eyes ; in regenerative creams for dry, normal and mature skin ; in creams for damaged hands ; in body hygiene products ; in lip balms.

Usage level
Walnut oil can be used in any cosmetic product as an active principle or as a carrier in the oily phase, without any proportion limit.

Analytical data sheet
INCI name Walnut (Juglans regia) oil
INCI name Europe Juglans regia
Customs tarification 15-15-90-60
CAS number 8024-09-7

Refined walnut oil
Organoleptic analysis
  Colour Yellow
Specific Physico-chemical characteristics
  Density at 20C 0.910 - 0.930
  Refractive index at 20C 1.4750 - 1.4780
  Acid index < 5.0
  Iodine index 140 - 150
  Peroxide value < 5.0
  Percentage of unsaponifiables 0.5 - 1.0 %
The standard norm of this analytical data sheet are only indicative and could undergo modifications.
Keep away from light and heat.
Kelly

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Water
Water is the major component of all living things and the ingredient used most often in cosmetics. The best beauty treatment of all is to drink at least eight glasses of water a day! Remember to always use the purest filtered water when making cosmetics.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Wax
Emulsifying Wax
The cetostearyl alchohol which makes up a part of emulsifying wax is obtanied from fatty acids found in fixed oils (that would be plant oils, but could also be animal fats I suppose. I expect one could try to obtain a totally vegetable source. The original source was spermacetti - from sperm whales, but this is no longer the case). It increases the viscosity, improves the texture and aids the stability of certain emulsions. It also improves the emollient and skin absorption properties of the ingredients. This is good for creams and lotions made with herbs, essential oils and plant oils. Sodium lauryl sulphate is a detergent basis found in many shampoos, "soap" bars, bubble baths, toothpastes, etc. It is also produced from fatty acids. The two together have an emollient rather than drying effect on the skin, which socium lauryl sulphate on its own has. Some Supplies mention emulsifying wax as containing only cetostearyl alchohol. Some of the trade names cited in the British Pharmacopoeia for emulsifying wax are: Collone, Empiwax, Lannette wax. It is also known as Cera Emulsificans. Dr Moyra Evans

Lanette Wax
Lanette is commonly referred to as a vegetable derived emulsifer. Lanette wax is a vegetable derivative of cocunut. Lanette wax is a gift to cream and lotion making as it binds well with water. It serves as an emulsifer base and an emollient in creams and lotions. Lanette wax can be added to cocoa and shea butters, beeswax and oils. Creams to which lanette wax has been added are easily spread on the skin.
Lorena Beccari 9/3/98

Parowax
Is parrafin, that you would use in the kitchen or candles
Theresa Madden

For more detailed information on various waxes see Waxes

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Wheat Germ Oil
Wheat germ oil is a thin, golden oil with a very strong, nutty scent. It has a high vitamin A and E content and is believed to have healing properties.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Witch Hazel Hamamelis virginiana
Witch Hazel is a plant whose bark and leaves are made into a wonderful skin freshener, local anesthetic, and astringent. Add witch hazel to your favorite lotion for a cooling moisturizer in the summer.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Yogurt
Plain yogurt has wonderful skin-softening qualities. It is high in protein, calcium, and vitamins. Yogurt is easily absorbed by the skin and makes a soothing cleanser. Yogurt is made by fermenting milk with special bacteria.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

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Zinc Oxide
Zinc oxide is a creamy white powder commonly found in ointment form and used as a sunblock. It is also used as an astringent, antiseptic, and skin healer. Make sure you purchase the United States Pharmacopeiia (U.S.P.) grade intended for cosmetic use.
Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox

Zinc oxide, alkaline earth and metal oxides must not be added to stearate creams, since they can combine with the free stearic acid to form fatty acid salts and possibly reverse the emulsion.
Marge Miron

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Shelf Life of Oils

Oils Most Stable up to 1 YearOils Stable 6 months - 1 yrOils Less Stable 3 - 6 monthsOils Un-Stable Less than 3 months
AvocadoAloe Vera GelAloe Vera OilSafflower (Linoleic)
Coconut*ApricotBorageWalnut
Cocoa ButterAlmondCamellia 
Jojoba;CanolaEvening Primrose 
Olive;CornGrapeseed 
PalmCottonseedSoybean 
Safflower (Oleic)Kiwi Fruit SeedSunflower 
Sunflower (Oleic)Passion FruitHemp* 
Wheat GermHazelnut  
EmuMacadamia  
Kukui*Peanut 

 

 Pecan  
 Pistachio  
 Rice Bran  
 Sesame   

* See listing for oil for more details

Kathy, The petal pusher owner toiletries listserv and others

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Comedogenocy of Oils
"Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry" (ed. D.F. Williams, W.H. Schmitt; Blackie A&D, 1992):
Emmolient materials with a low comedogenic effect are less likely to aggravate acne)

LowMediumHigh
Avocado oilOlive oilCocoa butter
castor oilSesame oilSweet almond oil
CholesterolArachis oil (peanut oilCrude petroleum jelly
LanolinWhite petroleum jellyalcohols
Stearic acid Glyceryl monostearate (found in someshortenings) 
Candelilla waxCapric/caprylic triglycerides (found in coconut oil and butterfat) 
Beeswax (25% in mineral oil)  
Glycerine  
Propylene glycol  
Lanolin oil  
White mineral oil  

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© 1998- Linda Coffin

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